If you find yourself wandering along the breeze-swept shores of Kozhikode’s South Beach (Thekkepuram) as the sun begins its golden descent, you might encounter a man who carries more than just candy he carries the collective childhood of an entire city. This is A. T. Basheer, better known to generations of locals as Mittayi Basheer. In an era dominated by mass-produced chocolates and plastic-wrapped sweets, Basheer stands as a solitary sentinel of a dying art form. With his iconic green tin box slung over his shoulder, he doesn’t just sell sugar; he performs a ritual that has remained unchanged for nearly a century.
The Art of the “Jow Mittayi”
The candy Basheer sells is known by many names Jow Mittayi, Panchara Paal Mittayi, or simply “Bombay Candy.” To the uninitiated, it looks like a simple lump of sticky, cream-colored dough. However, the process of creating it is an arduous labor of love. Every morning, long before the city wakes up, Basheer begins his work. The candy is a precise concoction of sugar, water, and a dash of lemon juice, boiled to a specific consistency and then cooled in tumblers coated with coconut oil. The result is a malleable, elastic sugar mass that requires immense physical strength to pull and knead. This “pulling” process aerates the sugar, giving it its signature pearly sheen and chewy texture.
A Performance on the Sands
What truly sets Basheer apart is his showmanship. When a child (or a nostalgic adult) approaches him, Basheer doesn’t just hand over a piece of candy. He reaches into his green tin, pulls out a wad of the sweet dough, and begins a rhythmic dance of the fingers. With incredible speed and dexterity, he stretches, twists, and loops the sugar. Within seconds, a shapeless lump is transformed into a delicate butterfly, a peacock with a fanned tail, a motorcycle, or even a pair of spectacles that a child can actually wear before eating. It is street theater at its finest a blend of sculpture and confectionery that leaves onlookers spellbound.
A Legacy Born in the 1930s
Basheer is not the creator of this tradition; he is its proud custodian. The craft was brought to Kozhikode by his father, Aboobacker, who migrated from Nagore, Tamil Nadu, in 1968. Aboobacker had learned the art in the 1930s and became a legendary figure in Kozhikode, often seen selling candy while singing melodious songs to attract crowds. Basheer took up the mantle over 50 years ago, following in his father’s footsteps with the same dedication. While his brother continues the trade in Thirunavaya, Basheer has become an inseparable part of the Kozhikode beach landscape. He has witnessed the city change from a quiet port town to a bustling urban hub, yet his methods, his recipe, and his green tin remain exactly the same.
Why Mittayi Basheer Matters Today
In a world of rapid globalization, Basheer represents what UNESCO calls “Intangible Cultural Heritage.” He is a living archive of a specific culinary skill that cannot be replicated by a machine. For the people of Kuttichira and the wider Kozhikode area, Basheer is a bridge to their past. It is a common sight to see parents, now in their 40s, introducing their children to Basheer, recounting stories of how they used to wait for him at the same spot decades ago. His presence reminds us that the soul of a city isn’t found in its malls or high-rises, but in the people who preserve its small, beautiful traditions. Basheer’s candy isn’t just about the sweetness of sugar; it’s about the sweetness of memory, the persistence of heritage, and the simple joy of watching a master at work.
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