The city of Kozhikode, with its storied history of trade and art, undergoes a spiritual transformation every year during the Thyagaraja Ulsavam. This festival is not merely a series of concerts; it is a collective meditation on the life and works of Saint Thyagaraja, the 18th-century composer who redefined the landscape of Carnatic music. For five days (this year from 4th-8th Feb) the aroma of incense and the drone of the tambura fill the air, drawing music lovers from across the state to witness a tradition that bridges the gap between the human and the divine.
The Legacy of the Saint in the Malabar Coast
While the heart of the Aradhana beats in Thiruvaiyaru, the Tyagaraja Aradhana Trust Calicut has meticulously cultivated a local legacy that began in 1981. The festival serves as a tribute to the “Bard of Thiruvaiyaru,” whose compositions were primarily an outpouring of his intense devotion to Lord Rama. In Kozhikode, this event has grown from a modest gathering of local teachers into a massive cultural milestone. It serves as a reminder that music is a universal language, capable of transplanting the soul of a Tamil saint into the heart of a Keralite city with seamless grace.
The Spiritual Procession: Unchavrithi
One of the most evocative sights during the Ulsavam is the Unchavrithi. Following the footsteps of Saint Thyagaraja, who refused royal patronage to live as a humble mendicant, musicians and devotees walk through the streets of Kozhikode. They sing bhajans and hymns while carrying a traditional bowl to collect offerings of rice and grain. This ritual is a powerful lesson in humility, emphasizing that the true purpose of art is not fame or fortune, but a simple, surrendered life dedicated to one’s craft and creator.
The Grand Unison: Pancharatna Kritis
The emotional peak of the festival occurs on the day of the Aradhana, usually the fourth or fifth day, during the group rendition of the Pancharatna Kritis (The Five Gems). This is a breathtaking spectacle where hundreds of vocalists and instrumentalists sit together in a disciplined formation. They perform the five specific compositions set in the ragas Nattai, Gaula, Arabhi, Varali, and Sri in perfect synchronization. The sheer volume of sound, anchored by the rhythmic pulse of the mridangam, creates a “Naada Brahmam” (divine sound) that often leaves the audience in a state of quiet awe.
A Platform for Every Devotee
What distinguishes the Kozhikode Ulsavam from many high-brow music festivals is its inclusivity. The Trust provides a platform for hundreds of registered devotees ranging from young children performing their first “Geetham” to elderly practitioners to offer their “Sangeetharchana” (musical offering) on the main stage. Each participant is accompanied by professional violinists and percussionists, ensuring that even a novice’s offering is treated with the same respect as a veteran’s. This democratic approach ensures that the tradition is passed down to the next generation through active participation.
The Evening Maestros and Cultural Synthesis
While the mornings are dedicated to community participation and rituals, the evenings are reserved for grand concerts by invited maestros. Renowned artists from across India travel to Kozhikode to perform at the Tali Brahmana Samooham or other heritage venues. These performances are free to the public, embodying the spirit of the festival as a gift to the community. As the sun sets over the Malabar coast, the intricate manodharma (improvisation) of these masters provides a sophisticated finale to a day spent in prayerful song, making the Thyagaraja Ulsavam an indispensable part of Kozhikode’s cultural identity.