Kozhikode, fondly known as Calicut, is renowned for many things mesmerizing beaches, rich culture, and especially its iconic sweets. At the heart of this sweet legacy lies the vibrant Mittayi Theruvu, popularly called Sweet Meat Street or SM Street, a bustling hub famous for its delicious Kozhikkodan Halwa.
The Sweet Meat Street Experience
SM Street, or Sweet Meat Street, owes its nickname to this “sweet meat” or halwa, which historically was the star sweet sold here. The street is lined with numerous shops selling a dazzling array of halwa varieties. What began as a simple black- or banana-flavored halwa has blossomed into over 50 distinct flavors, including unique ones like chili, passion fruit, chocolate, jackfruit, beetroot, tender coconut, and dry fruit halwas. The sights and smells of SM Street are enchanting piles of vividly colored halwa cubes stacked invitingly, sweet aromas wafting through the air, and the buzz of locals and tourists eager to sample and buy. Shops like the iconic Sankaran Bakery, with nearly a century of tradition, offer samples to help you select your favorite flavors. Prices generally range between ₹80 to ₹180 per kilogram, making it accessible for everyone to enjoy.
What Makes Kozhikkodan Halwa Unique?
The true magic of Kozhikode halwa lies in its preparation and key ingredients, which give it a signature taste and texture that is unlike any other.
Coconut Oil, Not Ghee: This is the most significant difference. The use of pure coconut oil gives the halwa a distinct, authentic flavor and a longer shelf life without refrigeration. This also makes it a relatively healthier option.
The Base: The traditional base is made from wheat flour, which is fermented for several hours. This is then slowly cooked with sugar or jaggery.
The Process: Making a good batch of halwa is a labor of love, often taking several hours of continuous stirring. This slow-cooking process is what gives the sweet its characteristic rubbery, gelatinous, and chewy texture.
Palette of Flavors – From Classic to Exotic
While the classic black or brown halwa is the most popular, Kozhikode’s sweet makers now offer many creative flavors. A stroll through Mithai Theruvu will greet you with halwas in a rainbow of colors and tastes.
Black Halwa: The classic and arguably most authentic version. It’s rich, dark, and deeply flavored, with a soft, jelly-like texture.
Classic White Halwa: The traditional base halwa with its soft, gelatinous consistency.
Red, and Orange Halwas: Colored naturally or with food colorings, resembling the appearance of meat, hence “sweet meat.”
Fruit Halwas: These are a must-try for their vibrant colors and fresh flavors. You’ll find everything from banana and dates to jackfruit, pineapple, and even tender coconut. The banana halwa, often made with the local Nendran variety, is a local favorite.
Nutty Halwas: For those who love a bit of crunch, there are varieties packed with cashews, almonds, and pistachios.
Experimental Flavors: The modern sweet shops on the street have pushed the boundaries, offering exotic and spicy options like chili halwa and passion fruit halwa that are a delightful surprise for the palate.
If you find yourself in Kozhikode, a stroll down SM Street is a must. Beyond tasting the diverse halwas, you soak in a sensory and cultural experience reflecting Kerala’s rich culinary heritage. It’s a perfect spot for food lovers, culture enthusiasts, and anyone wanting to take home a sweet souvenir from their Kerala travel
